1. Use leave-in conditioners and oils
Sweat is basically salt, which can be very drying for curly hair. That’s why it’s important to stay on top of your moisturizing regimen. Deep condition your hair regularly and use a leave-in conditioner or a moisturizing curl cream every time you wash your hair. Once your hair is completely dry after a wash, be sure to take a few drops of oil and glide it over your curls to seal in the moisture.
2. Shampoo less
This may sound counter-intuitive when you’re sweating at the gym, but shampooing too much can often strip away your hair’s natural oils. Sweat can already dry out your hair so it’s important to minimize any products that could add to it. Try to go as long as you comfortably can between washdays. We don’t recommend giving up shampoo completely. Instead, co-wash or use dry shampoo between shampoo washes.
3. Cleanse your curls regularly
When you’re shampooing less and using products to refresh your hair after workouts, it’s even more important to regularly cleanse and clarify your curls. Too much shampoo can dehydrate your curls, but the right amount and frequency does a great job at cleansing your curls and keeping your scalp healthy. Co-washes are good for dry hair but should never replace shampoo completely.
4. Use the right stuff
The products you use play a huge role in how often you’ll need to wash it. To really stretch the number of days between washes, go for lighter products to avoid build-up. To refresh your hair post-workout, light weight products are your best friends. You can also try using a few spritz of water to reactivate the product already in your hair.
5. Adjust your haircare routine to fit your surroundings
Your hair will need something different every season. In winter, your hair will need more moisture. In summer, you can get away with shampooing more often because your hair doesn’t need as much moisturizing products. Everyone’s hair is different and you’ll have to find what works for you!
6. Don’t workout with wet curls
After washing and styling your hair, you must make sure that your curls or waves are completely dry before you go for an afternoon jog. Moving your hair while it’s still wet will disturb your curl pattern and cause frizz.
1. Pineapple
Image source: so_manti
A pineapple will keep your hair out of your way during your workout. Use a scrunchie or silk scarf to tie your hair up—and show of your curls at the gym!
2. Top knot or high bun
Image source: msjeanettejenkins
This is one of our favorites! A top knot is practical and looks super stylish. You won’t have to worry about your curls touching your forehead or face while you work out. Make sure you tie your hair loosely so you don’t leave a dent.
3. Low bun
Image source: Unknown
This is a popular gym hairstyle for all hair types. A low bun is quick, easy and convenient.
4. Loose braid
Image source: Refinery29
This is an especially great option for people with wavy hair, since wavy hair already has a soft bend and braids won’t alter the texture too much. Braids are simple to do and don’t require much time.
5. Twists
Image source: monatalisa
You can twist your strands together, and put all the twists up while exercising to keep them out of your way.
6. Hair bands or silk scarves
Image source: so_manti
If your hair is very short or if you want to get rid of the sweat that can cause your edges to frizz, wear a hair band or a silk scarf. You can pair these with any other hairstyle—a pineapple with a headband would look super cute!
1. Steam
Turn the water all the way up to make it really hot and let the steam fill up the shower. Don’t wet your hair under the shower though—just let your hair soak up the extra moisture from the hot shower. You can also use a face steamer instead. After steaming your hair, you can scrunch its to encourage the curls. You can also spray your refreshing products on your hands and gently glide down your curls to help them re-clump.
2. Spray bottle
Grab a spray bottle and spritz some water on your curls. Once they’re damp, use a bit of leave-in conditioner, gel, refresher mist or whatever product you prefer to refresh with. Glide it down your strands and scrunch to revive your curls. You can use oil or serum to smooth down your edges and tame some of the frizz.
3. Water
If you don’t like using products to refresh, you can simply spray your hair with water and scrunch your curls to help them reform and re-clump.
4. Rinse
If none of these methods cut it, you can do a full-water refresh. Rinse with water and reapply your styling products.
The real secret to great curls is to stop obsessing over them all the time. Focus on your end goal and allow yourself to sweat and feel good! What are your best refreshing tips and curly gym hairstyles?
]]>A hot oil treatment is right for you if your hair is dry, frizzy, chemically damaged, and of course, curly. Hot oil treatments can also be applied to the scalp for boosting blood circulation. A hot oil treatment will help:
A hot oil treatment is not recommended if you have any skin conditions such as as psoriasis or eczema. In such cases, it is best to consult your dermatologist to discuss if the oil is safe for your scalp.
It is recommended to use 100% pure oils such as jojoba, almond, or lavender. You can also incorporate essential oils into your mixture of oils. Make sure none of the oils are synthetic or mixed with other ingredients. The Coco Curls Hair Growth & Anti-Frizz Oil, made of 100% pure oils, is safe to use for hot oil treatments.
If you want to do a patch test first, apply some oil to your elbow. If there is no rash within 24 hours, it should be safe to use on your skin.
Make sure you do not warm the oil for longer than 10 seconds in the microwave. Let it cool down before you apply it to prevent burning your skin. You can try some oil on your wrist to make sure the temperate is right.
Choose pure oils such as jojoba oil, almond oil or lavender oil (a pure blend of these oils and more can be found here).
Take 5-6 tablespoons of oil depending on the length and volume of your hair.
Warm it for 10 seconds in the microwave. Make sure it is not too hot. Do your due diligence to make sure the oil has cooled down before you touch it. Alternatively, you can put the oil in an applicator bottle and put the bottle inside hot water to warm it.
Make sure your hair is dry.
Divide your hair into sections.
Take a section of your hair and massage into your scalp. Apply it to your strands but don’t cover or drench the strand in oil. A little goes a long way. Apply from the roots to the ends.
Repeat with all sections of your hair.
Place a shower cap on your hair by 15-30 minutes.
You can sit under a hooded dryer or streamer if you have access to one. If not, it’s completely fine not to do so. This step is just to apply extra heat to the treament. You can also apply some extra heat using a blow dryer at low speed.
Rinse and wash thoroughly with a shampoo or co-wash.
Apply a leave-in conditioner and style as usual.
You can repeat this treatment once a week and up to 3 times a week.
Are you going to try a hot oil treatment? Let us know how it goes!
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Since curls are made of spirals, it’s best not to sleep on your hair as that will crush the hair follicle which can result in messy and frizzy hair. No curly would wish that upon themselves as we work so hard to style our hair.
Here are 5 ways you can preserve your hair while you sleep:
Get rid of your regular cotton pillowcase as it can absorb oils from your hair and scratch against the hair strands. A silk or satin pillowcase is best for protecting the hair follicles while you toss and turn at night. It will reduce friction on hair as you sleep.
Pineapple is simple a way of tying your hair to protect your curls. Use a satin or cotton scrunchie to tie your hair up at the crown of your head. Flip your head upside down, gather your curls into a high ponytail on the top of your hair and wrap it once in a scrunchie. If you have finer hair, you can wrap it twice but make sure you don't crease your curls. Don’t use a hair elastic or thin hair tie as that can leave a dent in your curls. Be careful not to pull too hard or make the pineapple too tight.
This can be used as a standalone method or in combination to putting your hair in a pineapple (or a protective hair style) while you sleep. Simple wear a bonnet made of silk or satin or tie a light hair scarf around your hair before your get into bed.
To prevent hair follicles rubbing against each other, they can be tied up in protective hairstyles. Try simple twists using bobby pins or small elastics. Alternatively, experiment with different types and number of braids. A loose braid will help maintain your natural curl pattern. A tighter braid can stretch your hair and give you a looser curls if your curls are very tight. If you’re more on the wavy side, a tight braid can give you tighter curls. Instead of a regular braid, try putting your hair in a French braid if you know how to make one. This will stretch our your curls at the roots. You can also part your hair into multiple braids and twists. Experiment with different braids to see which one works best for you.
Plopping is a popular curl drying method that helps prevent hair being weighed down by gravity. This technique requires you to apply styling products and gel to hair. Then lay a microfibre or cotton T-shirt on a flat surface and flip hair over, allowing it to pile on top of itself into the towel (the "accordion" technique). Tie the sides of the towel or tee so that it will remain securely on your head. The towel will speed up drying time, and the “pile” of curls will set nicely. If your hair is wet, this is a great way to protect your hair while you sleep.
While it’s important to preserve curls while you sleep, don’t let it turn your nights sleepless! There are many ways to fix your curls when you wake up, even if they’re a little messy and frizzy. When you rise and shine, try using steam to moisturize your hair. Simply take a steamy shower without washing or wetting your hair and let your hair absorb the moisture from the steam. You can also use a curl refreshing spray to moisturize and revive your hair.
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1. Your gel doesn’t have the right ingredients
Your gel needs to have ingredients that form a film over your curls. Make sure the gel you use has humectants and polymers to form a cast around your strands.
Polymers deposit onto the surface of hair and cause the hair to be attracted through capillary force, hence providing ‘hold’. Common polymers to look out for include PVP, PVA, PVP/VA copolymer and polyacrylate acid. Humectants are the ones that form a film around the hair. Common film-forming humectants to look out for are hydroxyethylcellulose, flax seed gel, aloe vera gel, xanthum gum, pectin, amino acids, peptides and hydrolyzed proteins.
2. You’ve used too much product
Gel is usually the last product you apply before you dry your curls so you’re probably adding gel over other products. If you’ve used too much of a product or used an oil-based product underneath, your gel may not be able to form a good cast. Gels work best on clean hair.
3. You’re not using enough gel
The amount of product you apply depends on your curl type, so you’ll need to experiment to find out what amount of gel works best for you. While applying very little gel won’t give you a good cast, applying too much would make your hair crunchy and limp. Try different things and you’ll find your fit!
4. You’re styling on soaking wet hair
While applying products to soaking wet hair is great for frizz control, it might not give you the best gel cast. Try squeezing out a bit of the water with a towel or t-shirt before applying gel.
5. Your hair moves as it dries
Try not to let your hair move too much or touch other objects and surfaces as it dries. This includes pillows and fabrics. Using a diffuser will make the process easier and quicker.
Can you think of other reasons why your curls may not be forming a gel cast? Leave your questions in the comments below and we'll be sure to answer!
]]>The weather and environment have an affect on curly hair.
Curly hair tends to get extremely dry in winter. This is because in winter, the weather tends to get dry with very low humidity. There’s no moisture left in the air. So the air starts removing moisture from hair. This can result in dry hair that does not have very good hold. On the other hand, in summer, the air is generally very humid and hot which keeps hair moisturized.
Since hair becomes so dry, it also results in frizz. The hair strands start reaching out into the air for moisture.
Curly hair also tends to loose volume in winter. This is because of the lack of humidity in the air. Hair grows and becomes voluminous because of moisture in the air (humidity) so lack thereof results in flat hair. Another reason for flat winter hair is that we try to add more product to our hair to combat dryness. Adding excessive product can weigh down hair.
Because winter hair tends to be dry, frizzy, and flat, the care it needs is different from summer hair. In summer, we want to balance out the moisture in the air. We don’t want the moisture level in the air to be more than that of our hair so else hair tends to frizz. In winter, we need to moisturize our hair because the low humidity is drying our hair. Humidity is being pulled from hair to the outside (less humid) air.
As colder months approach, here are some tips on how to manage your hair:
In winter, curly hair loves heavier creams and oils to help prevent the moisture from being removed by the dry air. Rich creams and creamy leave-ins are great for winter months. In summer months, it’s best to stick to more liquid-y and diluted product. We recommend our Curl Defining Cream for colder months.
Since the focus is on keeping hair hydrated, it’s important to frequently do deep treatments and use hair masks. A pre-shampoo treatment using oils and masks before every shower will give desired results. Cover your hair with a cap or add heat to help the treatment seep into your hair.
It's best to wash your hair less than you would in hotter months. Twice a week is recommended but find out what works for your hair. It's best to use lighter washes in winter months to avoid drying out the hair. Use moisturizing shampoos and co-washes. Deep condition as often as you shampoo.
Humectants are materials used in products to moisturize dry or damaged hair. They promote moisture retention by attracting water molecules from the local environment and binding them to specific sites along their structure. Sounds great. However, in extremely low humidity conditions, humectants may draw water out of the interior of the hair shaft and cause dryness and possible damage or breakage.
In simpler words, humectants will attract moisture to wherever is dry. If the air is dryer than your hair, humectants will pull moisture from your hair to the air.
Glycerin is a very popular humectant found in most products. Other popular humectants are honey and agave nectar. Use products with more emollients.
Note that this does not mean glycerins are bad. In the right humidity (like in summer months), glycerin can be great for curls.
Don’t let your hair get exposed to the cold when it’s wet. Cold air will expand the hair shaft which will put stress on the cuticle and lead to frizz and breakage. In extremely low temperatures (below 1°C), wet hair can freeze outdoors and result in ice on the hair shaft. When this ice melts, it will turn to water and ruin the style and definition that you worked so hard on. Instead, try to diffuse or blow dry your hair. If that isn't possible, try to plop or gently towel dry your hair. If you must leave the house with wet hair, protect them with a scarf to shield from the weather.
If you follow these steps, you will be able to protect your curls throughout all the festivities and wonders that winter is sure to bring with it.
]]>When we first start our curly hair care journeys, many of us throw our shampoos out and switch to a co-wash only routine because it sounds like the least harsh option. After all, shampoo strips the hair of all natural oils and moisture, right? Wrong!
While there is nothing wrong with co-washing and it could definitely have its place in any curly hair routine, it simply does not replace shampoo to cleanse the hair and scalp. Shampoo, no doubt, has a bad rep in the natural hair world. What many don’t know is that shampoo today has many different formulations that are specifically made to address different challenges of curly hair while also retaining moisture.
How does shampoo work?
Shampoo works by removing dirt, oil, products and buildup from the hair. It has two types of properties: lipophilic (oil loving) and hydrophilic (water loving). The lipophilic side attracts oily substances from the hair and the hydrophilic side works to rinse the oily substances out with water. The active cleansing ingredient in shampoo is called a surfactant. Surfactants range from mildly cleansing to strongly cleansing. And this is where the difference in the multitude of shampoos arises: the surfactant in a shampoo is what determines how cleansing it actually is.
What are the different types of shampoos, then?
Clarifying shampoos: These are for squeaky clean hair. Clarifying shampoos are formulated to remove all product and built-up. The purpose is to expose the bare hair strands so that they can absorb water, which leads to true moisture. Clarifying shampoos are necessary for everyone but their frequency or usage should be determined by how dirty and oily your hair and scalp is. Clarifying shampoo should be used as needed because it can be harsh for hair that is already relatively free of dirt, build-up and non-water soluble products.
Chelating shampoos: This type of shampoo is very similar to a clarifying shampoo except that it gets rid of metals, minerals and chlorine that get deposited in the hair due to hard water. This shampoo is great for swimmers.
Moisturizing shampoos: These shampoos have more emollients and humectants and less strong surfactants. They do a good job of getting rid of mild to moderate dirt and build-up in the hair and scalp. However, over time, moisturizing shampoos can contribute to build-up in the hair, which means that it’s time for a clarifying shampoo!
Sulfate free shampoos: These are formulated without sulfates, which are a form of surfactants. Sulfates have a bad name in the hair care industry because they are one of the strongest surfactants and so can cause reactions with the scalp. But don’t believe everything you hear! A non-sulfate surfactant can be overly clarifying, and a sulfate surfactant can be mild.
Co-washes & cleansing conditioners: These are made of lots of conditioning agents and a bit of gentle surfactants. They are able to remove those products from the hair that are water based, water soluble, oil free and silicone free. However, they do nothing to remove oils, butters and heavy product buildup.
Which shampoo should I be using? Should I co-wash?
Well, this depends on how often you shampoo or cleanse your hair, how oily your scalp can get and what kind of products you use.
If you cleanse every few days and use mostly water soluble products, it’s completely okay to co-wash as long as you also shampoo every 2-3 weeks. Since there isn’t much that needs to be removed from the hair that can’t be removed with water, cleansing more than every 2-3 weeks isn’t required. If you cleanse every few days but use oils and butters, you can still co-wash but you should be shampooing more often.
If you cleanse your hair every 2-3 weeks, however, and possibly also use oils and butters, you should be using a shampoo every time you cleanse. If you like to refresh your hair every day or every other day by spraying water and adding some moisturizer or gel, you’d again want to shampoo every 2-3 weeks to get rid of build-up. If you use products with lots of silicones, you should probably be using a clarifying shampoo every 2-3 weeks.
Remember that you don’t have to stick to one routine at all times. You can decide which kind of cleanser to use depending on how your hair and scalp feel on wash day. Choosing what kind of cleanser you should use is something only you can decide. Try different things and see what works best for you. And remember—don’t believe everything you hear!
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Using sulfate-free products has become a trend. Even if you don't know what sulfates are, where they come from, what they do, how they're beneficial or harmful, you still may be choosing to buy sulfate-free products because everyone seems to be running away from sulfates.
So let's break it down.
Sulfate are surfactants (which is a term for various detergents, emulsifiers, and foaming agents) that attracts both oil and water. Sulfates allow grime and dead skin cells to be removed from your skin and scalp and washed away with water
In simple words, sulfates are what creates lather - the beautiful foam that we all associate with “clean”
Every curly would answer - because sulfates strip your hair,
They do. And that’s exactly why they should be used. As long as you know how to use them.
Sulfates are especially important when clarifying your hair. No matter what products you use, you WILL get build up. It doesn’t matter if you are avoiding silicones. All products can cause build up. Let’s repeat that for the curlies at the back: ALL products can cause build up. Even the natural sebum produced by sebaceous glands can cause build up. Sweat and dirt from the environment causes build up too.
You don’t want build up. Build up results in:
This is why it’s important to use a sulphate shampoo to clean your hair, at least once a month. Some curlies do it once a week - it entirely depends on your hair type.
You just need to be mindful of what kind of sulfates work for your specific hair type as not all sulfates are made equal.
The most common sulfates found in shampoos are Lauryl Sulfates and Laureth Sulfates. These are usually the second or third ingredient listed on your ingredient list.
Examples of Lauryl Sulfate detergents:
These are very good cleansers for hair and create great lather. They are also very easily rinsed out of here. They’re excellent cleansers too. But they can be harsh on hair so they are recommended for people with oily here.
Examples of Laureth Sulfate detergents:
These are less harsh than lauryl sulfates and are recommended for medium to dry hair.
There is no reason to avoid sulfates unless you have a very sensitive scalp or you have eczema or another medical condition.
If you have oily hair or a lot of danfruff, sulfates can be great for your hair. They will cleanse it with minimal effort needed.
If you love lather and foam while taking a shower, sulfate shampoos are your best friend.
If your hair is dry, fine or frizzy, sulfates CAN be harsh but not necessarily. It is best to limit your use of sulfate shampoos to once a week. It is important to note that most products with sulfates also contain many conditioning ingredients to balance the harsh effect of sulfates while still cleansing your hair properly.
If your hair is color treated, harsh sulfates may strip away the color.
But if your regular sulfate shampoo is giving you good results and you’re not seeing any dryness or scalp issues, there’s absolutely no reason to give it up entirely.
Absolutely not. There are many ingredients other than sulfates that can wash off silicones such as sodium cocoyl glutamate, polysorbates, caprylic acid, Lauramide DEA, cocomidopropyl betaine.
We’re not here to ingredient police but just to bring scientific facts that can help you have a better hair care routine. If a sulfate-free shampoo is what you want to use, go for it. If you’ve always used a sulfate shampoo and like the results and feel of it, and it doesn’t have any adverse effects on your hair, then keep using it.
Stay tuned for another blog post on how you can cleanse your scalp without using sulfates!
But for all our sulfate-loving curlies, keep lathering away.
]]>When you walk into a store looking for a new hair product, you’ll come across many products labelled “silicone-free”. Even if you don’t entirely know what silicones really are, you’re tempted to go for silicone free products just because of the way they’re marketed (10 points for marketing!)
But unless you know the science behind the purpose of silicones and how they can benefit or damage your hair, you’re not in the best position to decide whether your hair needs them or whether you should entirely avoid them.
So let’s break it down using science and logic rather than fads in the hair industry.
Silicones are synthetic (aka womanmade) polymers that have hydrophobic (water repelling) properties, which means that they help retain moisture by creating an impenetrable seal. In other words, silicones are occlusives. Occlusives form a water-repelling layer on hair which helps seal in moisture and water.
Silicones are not the only occlusives found in hair care products. There are many other occlusives like shea butter, coconut oil, cocoa butter, and beeswax. Silicones are just like any other occlusives.
Silicones provide many conditioning benefits to the hair. They do this by forming a thin, waterproof coating around your hair cuticle. This coating keeps your hair hydrated from within, while also preventing moisture from penetrating the hair shaft and causing frizz. Silicones have a slick and glossy texture which leaves your hair soft, smoother and free of tangles. Silicones also protect your hair from damage caused by heat-styling tools such as blow dryers and hot irons.
To sum it up, here is how silicones provide benefit to the hair:
A huge majority of people in the curly haired community follow the Curly Girl Method which bans the use of silicones. That may be why silicones get such a bad name amongst curlies. The logic is that silicones cause build up and that build up is only removed by shampoos that contain harsh surfactants like sulfates. Shampoos are not allowed in the Curly Girl Method which means it’s hard to remove the build up cause by silicones. The logic makes sense - there is no point of using silicones and then stripping them away using harsh chemicals like sulfates.
However, there are two questions: Can silicones only be removed by using sulfates? And are sulfates really so harsh that they have to be removed from your hair care routine?
The answer to both is no.
While we’re not disregarding the Curly Girl Method, it is important to note that not all silicones are made equal. And hence, not all silicones are bad. After all, it’s silicones, not men.
There are two kinds of silicones
It’s important to be able to identify good silicones from the not-so-good silicones.
Silicones generally end with “cone” or “xane”.
Below are some examples of the three types mentioned earlier. These will help you read ingredient labels more smartly.
1. Silicones that easily evaporate and do not cause build up
These are safe to use as they evaporate very quickly. They’re added to products mainly to easily disperse other ingredients as they don’t provide much conditioning benefits.
2. Soluble silicones
These silicones are great for hair and are water soluble so they do not need harsh surfactants to remove them.
3. Insoluble silicones
These silicones require a good surfactant or sulfate shampoo to wash them off. Most of them have amazing conditioning benefits though!
Here’s where we’ll break it to you: You can still wash off insoluble silicones WITHOUT using a sulfate shampoo. You do not need to use a sulfate shampoo in order to get the amazing benefits that silicones offer! There are many ingredients other than harsh sulfates that can wash off silicones such as sodium cocoyl glutamate, polysorbates, caprylic acid, Lauramide DEA, cocomidopropyl betaine.
No! It all depends on your specific hair type and your hair regimen. If you use products that are entirely free of sulfates or any good cleansing agent, it is probably a good idea to only stick to the water-soluble silicones. If you’re on a conditioner only routine, it is best to limit water insoluble silicones or silicones that need sulfates to be washed off.
For some people, silicones may be bad while for others, silicones may be the best thing that ever happened to them. Just make sure the rest of your hair care routine is in sync with your silicone preferences.
Curious to know if sulfates are bad for your hair? Stay tuned for our upcoming blog post.
]]>Simply put, hair porosity is the ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture. This is determined by how open or closed your hair cuticle is.
The hair cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It tightens up to protect itself from the weather and the environment. A smooth cuticle represents a protected, well-hydrated, undamaged cuticle. A rough cuticle represents damage and shows the hair is in need of moisture and repair.
You may have heard of porosity defined as “low, medium, and high”. While that is somewhat correct, porosity is actually measured on a scale that displays your porosity “grade”.
What does this scale mean? What does it mean to have low, medium, or high porosity hair? What causes hair to be a certain level of porosity?
Have no fear, we have all the answers.
Simply put, low porosity hair have a tight cuticle that does not allow water or product in easily. Medium (or normal) porosity hair have enough openings in the cuticle to allow a good amount of water and moisture in. High porosity hair have raised cuticles. This means the cuticles have wide openings in them which allow water in easily but also release it just as easily.
To understand more, let’s start with what the grades of porosity really mean.
Grade 1 | Extremely low porosity
This form of porosity is very rare. This is usually virgin hair which means the hair has not been exposed to any chemical treating, heat styling, manipulation or harsh environments. This hair type has not been color treated at all. The cuticle is so tight that it does not let water in easily. This hair type is difficult to hydrate and moisturize. Product and water tend to sit on top of the hair as the cuticle doesn’t let it in easily. Natural oils also do not penetrate the hair shaft and tend to sit on top of it. These hair appear to be smooth and healthy.
This is a rare grade to be in as most people do have exposure to sun and other environmental factors that can change the porosity of the hair.
Grade 2 | Low porosity
These are virgin hair that have occasionally been exposed to heat, chemical treatments, colouring, and of course, environmental factors like sunlight. The hair may have been coloured up to 3 shades lighter than natural color. The cuticle is slightly opened and lets some water in. The rest sits on top of the stand. This hair type has good elasticity and can be detangled without a conditioner.
Grade 3 | Medium porosity (sometimes known as normal or balanced porosity)
This hair porosity is usually the easiest to maintain. The hair cuticle has just enough openings to allow moisture to enter and to escape. This type of hair has had moderate exposure to chemicals, heat, and coloring. The hair color may be 5 shades up from the natural color. Grade 3 hair needs regular conditioning and requires a leave-in. It also requires a balance between protein and moisture.
Grade 4 | High Porosity
Grade 4 porosity is natural but it can be a result of excessive chemical treatments, heat, and coloring. This hair could have been lightened over 7 levels from the natural color (for eg., jet black to blonde). The cuticles are lifted, allowing moisture into the hair shaft. This means water and moisture also escapes very quickly. Hair is easy to hydrate but not for long as moisture tends to escape easily. These type of hair need a leave-in at all times or else it becomes frizzy and dry. Protein works well for this hair type.
Grade 5 | Extremely high porosity
We hate to say this but this hair type is not natural. These hair are damaged due to over exposure to chemical treatments, heat, and coloring. The hair has been striped of moisture and the follicle may have been damaged. There is most likely no cuticle left on the hair. When wet, the hair feels gummy and can be pulled apart. This hair is mostly beyond repair and needs to be chopped off or shaved off to start afresh!
Now that we know about the different kinds of porosities, let’s find out how to determine your hair’s porosity.
You may have heard of the “float test” to determine your hair porosity. This will not always give you an accurate result as it doesn’t take into account many other factors that can cause the hair strand to float or sink such as water surface tension, natural oils from the scalp, hair texture, age of the hair, hair dye or bleach, product build up like silicones, etc. The results of the “float test” can be fallible.
Here are some tests we recommend that are more accurate than the hair test:
1. The strand test
Take a strand of hair from each section of your head (front, midline or crown, and nape) stretch the individual hair out and run your fingers from the tip up to the root.
2. The spray bottle test
Take a section of your hair and spray it with water. Observe what happens.
If your hair has beads of water sitting on the strands of rolling off, it is Grade 1 or 2.
If your hair soaks up the water in a few seconds, it is Grade 3.
If your hair immediately soaks up water like a sponge, it is Grade 4 or 5.
3. Observe characteristics
Other than the strand and spray bottle tests, it is always good to observe your hair and determine your porosity according to the characteristics of your hair. As a general rule, the more you have done to your hair (coloring, bleach, heat treatments), the higher the porosity may be.
Below are some common characteristics found in each porosity:
Low porosity hair characteristics
Medium porosity characteristics
High porosity characteristics
Now that you can determine the porosity of your hair, let’s talk about what factors affect hair porosity.
Hair care for low porosity (grade 1 & 2) hair
Hair care for medium porosity (grade 3) hair
Hair care for high porosity (grade 4 & 5) hair
We hope this short guide helped you understand more about hair porosity and that you are much less confused than you were when you first came here.
Leave your questions in the comments below and we'll be sure to answer them!
]]>Curl clumping is when your natural curl strands gather together to form thick bunches or clumps. When your curls clump properly, you’ll see better definition and your hair will look healthier, shinier and bouncier. Once you’ve mastered the art of clumping, you’ll never have to worry about fly-away strands and unnecessary frizz. Here are a few reasons why your curls may not be clumping and what you can do about it.
While a hairbrush works great for those with tighter curls, the bristles may be disrupting your natural curl pattern if you have looser ringlets. Instead, try using a wide-tooth comb. A wide-tooth comb will detangle your curls, distribute your products evenly and clump your curls using your natural curl pattern.
If a product you’re using is too light, it may not have enough holding power to hold your curls together in order to form clumps. On the other hand, if the product is too heavy, it can end up weighing your curls down and making them look straw-like and stringy. Try different products with different application techniques and keep a track of how your hair responds to each one. This may be difficult at the beginning but you’ll eventually get a hang of what works for you.
Water is probably at the forefront when it comes to curl clumping. Curls can’t survive—let alone clump—without moisture so it’s important to fully saturate your hair. When you’re shampooing and conditioning your hair, make sure it is completely soaking wet. This will ensure that the product is distributed evenly and your hair is fully moisturized. The water will pull your curls into perfect clumps.
Make sure your hair is still super wet when you move on to applying your products. The water will clump the hair strands together and the product will bind the hair strands to hold the clumps in place.
Apply more conditioner, more leave-in, more gel. The more product you apply, the better your curls will clump together.
Not all products work for everyone, which is why curlies are usually on the lookout for the perfect styler for their hair. Some curlies may like to rake their products into their hair while other may prefer gliding it over their strands. Be sure to try different styling products and techniques to find out what works for you.
Once you’ve washed and styled your hair, be sure to keep your hands off it while it dries. Let the water and styler do their magic as they help your curls set and hold your clumps in place. Touching your hair before it has dries is the perfect way to disrupt your clumps and cause frizz.
And that’s it! While it’s great to learn from other curlies, remember that not every method will work for you, which is why it’s important to experiment on your own. No rules are set in stone and you can make your own as you go!
Do you have your curls all figured out? Do you like experimenting? We’d love to hear from you!
]]>After applying shampoo to your hair or co-washing, tip your head forward and rinse your hair upside down. As the water runs over your roots in the shower, your hair will start to clump and your curls will start to form. While conditioning, flip your hair forward, comb the conditioner through with a comb or brush and then rinse. Apply your styling products with your hair tossing upside down and side-to-side. By rinsing and styling upside down, you’re essentially ‘tricking’ your hair to be styled one way (upside down) only to be tossed the other way when it’s dry. This makes the roots stand up, hence creating volume.
Creams may be too heavy for your hair if you’re having trouble creating volume. Heavy creams and leave-ins can weigh down your curls, no matter what techniques you use. Instead, use light-weight products, such as mousses, whipped creams, custards, lighter leave-ins and gels.
Diffusing your hair - especially if you do it upside down and side-to-side - will help make your hair bigger and more voluminous. Dry your roots first and then move on to the rest of your strands.
If you prefer air drying rather than diffusing, be sure to plop your hair using a cotton t-shirt or microfibre towel after applying your products. Your curls ‘sitting’ on top of your head give your hair an extra boost and prevent it from drying like a wet blanket close to your head without any volume.
Clipping curls at the roots while they dry will help create volume, especially in fine hair that can easily get weighed down by products and/or water. If your hair isn’t completely dry after plopping or diffusing, clip your hair by lifting individual curls at the root and popping the clip in so that the curl stands up rather than lying flat. Let your hair air dry. Take the clips out once it is completely dry.
To create some added volume at the roots, dry your hair in the opposite direction of how you actually want to part it when it has dried. Once it has completely dried, flip your hair over to where you actually want your parting and you’ll have quite a bit of volume.
Flip your head forward, fluff out your roots and get instantly bigger hair.
Insert the hair pick at the roots and gently pull towards outwards to loosen and break the curls closet to your scalp. This will create easy volume. Make sure you’re careful and handle your curls gently while picking at them as this can easily cause breakage.
Because of product buildup, you hair can become flat and limp. In order to maintain voluminous, weightless and healthy curls, be sure to do a clarifying wash regularly once a month. Always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment!
If your hair hasn’t been trimmed in several month, the length of your hair can be working against volume. If you’re doing everything to create volume but nothing seems to be working, get a trim and your hair will be back to being bouncy and voluminous in no time. You don’t need to get rid of too much length if you don’t want to. Even a small trim can go a long way.
What are your best tips for getting more volume in your curly hair? Share them in the comments below!
]]>Protein and moisture balance is about feeding our hair the right foods. Just like a healthy diet, we need to have a healthy routine for our hair too. If we constantly keep eating the same food group over and over again, we’ll begin to lack other essential nutrients. The same goes for our hair.
Most curly girls, when starting out with their hair journey, tend to focus too much on moisture since that is the logical thing to do - we’re told that curly hair is dry and lacks moisture. If we just hydrate and moisturize our hair correctly, we will get perfectly defined and frizz- free curls. And so a very essential nutrient gets left behind - protein. It is what our hair is made of and what gives our hair strength and structure
It's important to include BOTH.
In short, protein and moisture balance is a healthy state of hair when it is nourished, hydrated, strong and moisturized from properly treating it with the right products.
Balanced curls are shiny, bouncy, defined, frizz-free while maintaining moisture and length. If this is your hair, well done! You’ve figured out your routine and you’re a curlspiration.
To break it down…
Protein repairs and strengthens the hair. Because of activities such as styling, heat, coloring, and even using water, protein in hair begins to break down. Products with protein help to repair hair from said damage and restore the hair’s health.
Moisture keeps hair lush, shiny, and, well, moisturized. If we do not hydrate hair enough, it results in hair that is dry, frizzy, and breakable.
Here is where things get a little scientific. If you do not want to hear the scientific bit, skip to the next section where we explain in simple words.
For those of you who stayed, here goes:
Whether your hair needs moisture or protein depends on many factors, one of them being the texture of your hair. Hair texture is the circumference of your hair (fine, medium or thick). All textures require a balance.
There are two important factors in determining what your hair needs:
Do an elasticity test. Hold a single strand of your hair in your hand and gently stretch it. There are 3 possible results:
Low elasticity: If the strand doesn’t stretch and instead breaks/snaps, the elasticity is low, hence there are low levels of moisture in your hair. You need more moisture in this case!
Good elasticity: If the strand stretches and bounces back, it has good elasticity, hence good levels of moisture. This is the ideal result.
Poor elasticity: If the strand stretches and keeps stretching with no bounce back or eventually breaks off, it has moisture overload and poor elasticity. You need protein in this case.
Take a chunk of your hair and spray it with water. Make sure this strand is dry and does not have too much product on it already. Spray water and watch how the absorption happens.
There are 3 possible results:
Low porosity: If the water beads cling to your hair, you have low porosity hair.
Medium porosity: If the water gets absorbed pretty well, it is medium porosity.
High porosity: If the water is sucked into your hair and quickly dries up, it is high porosity.
(You can also check porosity using the water glass test.)
To sum it up, here's a chart of what your hair needs depending on elasticity and moisture levels:
Now that you know what your hair needs, it’s time to find products.
Look out for words such as:
Look our for ingredients such as:
You can't remember all these complicated names so here are the key words to focus on:
Protein, amino acids, hydrolyzed, collagen, keratin
Look out for words such as:
Look out for ingredients such as:
Main moisturizing ingredient is ALWAYS water.
Your hair is suffering from protein overload if it is:
How to fix it?
Instead of a protein-heavy conditioner, go for one that is moisturizing. Look for words like hydrating and moisturizing on the label. Avoid strengthening conditioners and ones that contain a lot of the protein rich ingredients mentioned above.
Your hair is suffering from moisture overload if it's:
How to fix it?
Frequently co-washing, deep conditioning, and using butters and balms can cause a sudden moisture overload. Clarify at least once or twice a month. Try a gentle cleansing shampoo instead of co-washes. Make sure that any conditioner you use contains some form of hydrolyzed protein.
So there you have it! If you like this blog post, you'll definitely find some curlspiration here.
]]>When it comes to the large number of natural hair oils available on the market, it can be overwhelming to know which one would work best for your hair. But worry no more - this is where we come in.
Our Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil is made of a blend of 7 carefully selected oils that are great for smoothing frizz, keeping ends lubricated and promoting hair growth. This oil is good for you if you have dry hair or scalp, want to grow your hair longer or just want healthier hair in general!
Here are 5 different ways you can incorporate the Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil into your routine:
How to use: Apply a few drops of Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil to your hair. Make sure you do not drench your hair with it - a little goes a long way. Leave it on for at least thirty minutes or overnight. Before shampooing, be sure to detangle your hair while it still has oil in it. Follow with a clarifying shampoo and then apply a hydrating conditioner.
Benefits: This adds extra moisture to dry curly hair and makes it softer and more vibrant. Detangling will also become easier: your knots and tangles will literally melt away. You’ll feel the difference in your hair after you wash it—it will be stronger and harder to break.
How to use: For an easy DIY deep conditioner, add a few drops of Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil to your regular conditioner. Apply this mixture to damp hair and leave it in for no longer than 15-30 minutes. Shampoo as normal and then condition if needed.
Benefits: Regular deep conditioning will moisturize your hair and scalp. Your hair will look shiny and lustrous. It is also good for damage prevention: deep conditioning will prevent split ends and breakage, and will make your hair healthier and stronger.
How to use: Warm some Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil in hot water. After making sure the oil isn’t too hot, slather it onto your hair. Separate your hair in sections to make oil distribution easier. Massage it into your scalp and coat the hair till the end. Cover your hair with a shower cap or a hot towel and let the oil sit for at least 30 minutes. You can leave it overnight too if that’s what you prefer.
Benefits: Hot oil treatments will reduce frizz, dryness and split ends. The increased blood flow in the scalp will promote hair growth and result in healthier hair.
How to use: You can use Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil after your hair has dried to scrunch out the crunch or as a sealant. After your regular wash routine, apply your leave-in and other stylers and then diffuse or air-dry. Once your hair is completely dry, take a few drops of oil and gently rub it onto your strands. This will seal in moisture and add some extra shine to your hair.
Benefits: This will help lock in moisture and make your hair look shinier. It can also be used to scrunch out the crunch if you have a gel cast.
How to use: This is probably the most important when it comes to hair growth. Use the Coco Curls Hair Growth and Anti-Frizz Oil to massage your scalp, hence stimulating blood circulation and healthy hair growth.
Benefits: You’ll feel relaxed after a scalp massage and your hair will grow longer!
There are many other ways you can use our oil: to detangle, add some lightweight shine, tame frizz and moisturize dry ends. There is no right or wrong way. The best thing to do is to keep experimenting and find out what works for your hair!
Read more: Why you should oil your curly hair
]]>The oils produced by your scalp - sebum - hydrate your hair, add shine, reduce frizz and give it an overall healthier look. For those with straight hair, sebum can travel down the hair shaft easily, but this is not the case for spirals, curls and waves. This is why curly hair tends to be drier and more brittle than straight hair. And here is where oils come in.
Here are a few reasons to oil your curly hair regularly!
Curly hair is mostly dry. This is because sebum - the natural hair oil - cannot travel throughout the lengths of the hair as curls and knots prevent it from spreading. To counter this, oils can be used to help moisturize the hair and scalp. This way, oil is deposited throughout and no part of the hair lacks any.
Oil is rich in nutrients such as Vitamin B and E, iron, proteins, and more. When you oil your hair, the scalp gets much-needed nourishment, leaving it hydrated and moisturized.
Oil reduces frizziness, dullness, brittleness and split ends by hydrating the hair. It acts as a conditioner, softening and detangling the curls. This promotes hair growth, both thickening and lengthening your curly hair.
Because curly hair is less likely to stretch under pressure, it is more likely to break than other hair types. Oiling curly hair increases the curl elasticity and thus reduces the chances of it breaking.
Curly hair can easily look dull and dry. Oils are an easy solution: just a small amount can easily restore or add shine to curly hair.
While oiling hair is good for all types of hair, it is especially beneficial to curly hair. Are you ready to incorporate oils into your hair care routine? Read about the 7 best oils for curly hair.
Need more curlspiration? Click here.
By Amna Salman Khilji
]]>Curls don’t allow the natural oil (sebum) produced by the scalp to be distributed evenly throughout the hair because of the knots and curls. Because curly hair doesn’t have the ability to keep moisture locked in, it may get very brittle and dry, which is why choosing the perfect natural hair oil with an abundance of nutrients to keep your hair healthy is important.
Here are some oils that make maintaining and styling curly hair much easier!
Lavender essential oil is known for its calming nature. Since it's a stimulant for hair growth, it can provides more volume, making curls fuller and thicker. Lavender oil also has the capability to heal scalp irritation because of its antimicrobial and antibacterial properties.
Rosemary oil is known for its role in encouraging hair growth and reducing hair loss. Regular application to curly hair would tremendously improve thickness and texture. Furthermore, its capability to heal alopecia and reduce scalp irritation is an added benefit as well.
Because of Rosemary oils’ ability to improve cellular generation, it gives curly hair both growth and volume!
Containing a plethora of numerous vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, peppermint oil is best suited to reduce scalp irritation and stimulate hair growth. Peppermint oil tends to increase circulation of blood in the scalp, allowing for healthier curls to grow. Due to its anti-fungal properties, it also helps reduce and avoid dandruff. It always brings a healthy shine to curly hair, if applied regularly.
A research carried out in 2014 shows that pumpkinseed oil significantly reduces hair loss and is a major stimulant for hair growth, especially for curly hair. Rich in fats, protein and Vitamin E, pumpkinseed oil is one of the primary stimulant of hair growth in curly hair as well as one of the best deterrents of hair loss. It helps to restore brittle or damaged hair, and this works out, especially in favour of curly hair simply because curly hair tends to lose moisture quickly.
Jojoba oil is said to be the most helpful oil for to curly hair because of its close resemblance to the natural oil produced by our hair, known as sebum. As a non-greasy oil, it stops overproduction of sebum which could be damaging for curls. It also gives a nice, healthy shine to your natural hair. Being a light oil, it does not weigh down thin curls.
This versatile oil offers numerous benefits to naturally curly hair. Because of its unmatched sealing capability, it is best to apply a small amount after you condition your hair to soften and moisturize by locking the moisture in. It also helps with maintaining tangle-free hair and allowing those curls to blossom with a healthy shine!
For naturally curly hair, blackseed oil is an amazing way to restore hair growth without turning towards chemicals. It is known to work best when mixed with other oils like coconut oil. Because balckseed oil has antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces dandruff, helps maintain a healthy scalp and promotes moisture retention. Overall, it is a well-rounded oil, so make sure to use this for your curly hair!
So there you have it! Your curls will thank you if you use these oils. Want ALL these benefits in a single oil? You can find a blend of all these oils in this Hair Growth and Anti Frizz Oil from Coco Curls.
By Eeman Ahmad
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